About a week ago, I came back from spring break, or as South Africans like to say “Holiday,” where I traveled to Zambia, Johannesburg, Kruger National Park and Mozambique with 5 girls from my house. It was 12 days full of hostels, 4 different currencies, new people, stunning sights, milk fiascos, border annoyances, wild animals, a plethora of mosquitoes bites and great adventures. We had an itinerary where the basics were planned out, but just like my housemate Anabela says, “you just can’t anticipate everything.” Boy was she right.
Zambia
Our first stop was Livingstone, Zambia where saw one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World-Victoria Falls. We left Cape Town around 2 in the morning- sleepy, tired from last minute packing and excited for the next two weeks. Now ever since I was younger I have had this curse that I cannot sleep sitting down. Thus, throughout our entire trip, which was dominated by planes and cars (our modes of transportation), I did not sleep. I wish I remembered this before I decided to sleep a mere hour before boarding a plane to Zambia. We took a flight to Johannesburg and connected to Livingstone, arriving towards mid afternoon.
The airport in Zambia, as we will find out all throughout Africa, is nothing more than a mere building with a couple of workers. The tickets were even hand written. After we arrive, we pay the 50 American dollars for a visa into the country. Mind you, the process to get a visa for South Africa involved months of gathering paperwork and security clearance. Zambia? 50 bux. TIA. Then we proceed to exchange our South African Rand for some Zambian Quacha. Fun to say, not so fun to convert. The woman at the counter handed me around 800,000 quacha….thats about 200 US dollars. It took me a while to stop being shocked at seeing prices in such large increments for a 10,000 “dollar” cup of coffee. It became a running joke even to this day.
Jollyboys was the first of many hostels we would come to call “home” over the weeks. By the amount of different hostels we stayed in throughout the trip, we can start up a website and become critics. If this did come true, Jollyboys would have high rankings in my book. It contained a very inviting set up and there was always fellow travelers lounging (or skinny dipping) by the pool, reading in the pillow pit, or socializing at the bar. We did not have much time to catch our breath because as soon as we arrived, we were whisked off to a booze cruise on the river.
Please believe me when I say that Zambia is breath taking. Literally, there would be times on that cruise (small boat with tables set up, popcorn in large bowls as appetizers, and an open bar) when I would turn around and have the wind knocked out of me because of the beauty that laid before me. Zambia is what screensavers are made of. There was a very diverse group of people on that boat from Japanese tourists to European volunteers. We quickly made friends with everyone on the boat and chatted away for the next couple of hours. By the time the cruise was over, no one was the same as when they boarded. Take that as you like. We then proceeded to go back to the hostel where the lounge/bar was full of people, and so the socialization continued. I met a lot of interesting people, especially those who are traveling for long periods of time such as a year or 2. But I will get into my realization about them later on.
The next day in Zambia was spent in Victoria Falls. I am at a loss of how to describe something with such synonymous power and tranquility. It was beyond amazing. Everyone who had visited the falls warned us about how drenched we would get while visiting. My favorite phrase came from our German roommate, “Let me just put it to you this way. I jumped into the pool right now to dry off from being at Vic Falls.” Understatement.
So we thought ourselves a clever bunch and rented ponchos to be worn during our visit…useless. I loved it! There is this bridge that connects Zambia to Zimbabwe, however the water and mist from the waterfall entrenches it that all you see is white in front of you while a tsunami engulfs you. It was difficult to keep my eyes open, but I continued to walk on the bridge. Soon enough, I was lost in the white mass and just kept walking forward unaware of neither where this bridge leads nor how long it was. I could not help but smile the entire time. In fact, I had to scream a couple of times to release my happiness and disbelief at God’s grace (scene from Garden State anyone?) I seriously want to be proposed to at Victoria Falls. It is the most epic wonder I have ever seen in my life. When I told this to our hostel owner in Joburg, he laughed and said “good luck getting a guy to do that!” It will happen. Wishful thinking ;) 
This was a great start to our trip. Unfortunately, we were scheduled to leave for Johannesburg the next day. We arrived at the airport an hour and a half early only to hear our names on the intercom and an airport worker frantically asking if I was Marina Saleeb. I was shocked as to why we were being hassled while still so early. Apparently Zambia does not run on Africa time and is indeed very very early in its airports. To this day, I do not understand why we were rushed when we then sat in the airport lounge for another thirty minutes. Nonetheless, the prospect of missing our plane was terrifying as Africa does not have many flights, for there is little demand for them. Thank God, all went well and we were off to Joburg!
Johannesburg
Going from the simplicity that covers Zambia to the hustle of a city like Johannesburg took some getting used to. I am currently in a Crime and Deviance in South Africa class here and every lecture is centered on the crime that poisons Johannesburg. Thus, I was on edge and very cautious while walking around Johannesburg. Mind you, I am traveling with 5 other American girls, which means that we definitely stick out as tourists. Backtracking a little bit, the plane did not serve us food or drinks. Ladies and Gentlemen, you now have to pay for food and drinks on the plane. Yes, that even means water and peanuts. What happened to the good old days when I was given a blanket, pillow, coloring book and mixed nuts? Well, this lack of food and traveling frenzy left us incredibly hungry. We dropped our stuff at the hostel and jetted to the Cats Pajamas, restaurant, and coincidentally one of my favorite phrases. This is where the disorientation of our trip exhaustion combined with hunger created delirium in us all.
You can all relate to the next statement I am about to say. Every culture thinks they are slow and run on their own timetable. We have all heard Egyptians say “Oh, (giggle) Egyptian time!” or Pnays claim “Philipino time!” as they arrive an hour late. However, there is nothing in comparison to Africa time. Here, the concept of fast service is non-existent. So you can only imagine how we looked sitting there in a nice restaurant in our casual clothes with starve crazed looks in all our eyes while waiting for our food. Every time the kitchen door would open we would all stare up as if the Lord Himself would appear. I tell you all this because it was one of the most comical times of the trip for me as we were all insane. After the restaurant we walked across the street to wait for our driver. Sadly, a crazed man followed us out of the restaurant. We took refuge in a pharmacy where the woman working behind the counter told us to stay put. I cannot imagine living in a city where I feel unsafe at all times purely for being. This incident contributed to all my travel mates disdain for Johannesburg. Understandable. However, I still want to go back to Johannesburg and explore, but with someone who knows the area.
The owner of the hostel, Harry, drove us home. His family lives in Miami but he refuses to leave South Africa because he says that he is connected to this place and will not leave and let those who pushed his family during apartheid win. He gave me chills while speaking. The zeal for his nation, family and South African descent was evident, a great precursor to our next day.
The Apartheid Museum. Amazing museum in design and content. It was very well put together and interesting to see the recent struggle of a country that I now call home. It is easy to forget that apartheid was merely a couple of years ago. The transition is evident everywhere you go in South Africa. After the museum we commenced on a long shuttle ride to Nelspriut where Kruger National Park is located.
Nelspriut – Kruger
When I told people that I was going to South Africa, one of the most common questions I would get besides (what country in South Africa?) is “are you going on a safari?” Now I won’t lie, I am not an animal lover. In fact, I could care less about them. However, while sitting in literature class, my professor was lecturing about how the world’s perspective of Africa is incredibly romanticized to be that of Disney’s Lion King. He then asked how many of us abroad students are going to Kruger Safari, South Africa’s famous. The students sitting near me knew I was not a local and when noticing that I did not raise my hand, one leaned over and said “you are missing out” as another girl chimes in “you cant be in South Africa and not!” That did it for me. If locals are scolding me for not partaking in it, then I had to go. Although my motives were not purely for the animals, it was an experience.
We stayed at Funkey Monkey hostel while in Nelspriut. Best hostel of the entire trip. Our nights were filled with meeting travelers, playing an unceasing game of Trivial Pursuit (pre fall of Berlin Wall version) and watching movies. The hostel led our safari the next day as well. We woke up at 3 am to climb into a large (emphasis on LARGE) jeep. In other words, a safari car. It was exactly what you think it is. I could not keep my eyes open for the hour drive to Kruger, especially since I had not had coffee. Thus the beginning of my safari was an internal struggle to stay awake.
The safari was a 12-hour car ride around the park looking for animals that felt more like a game of Where’s Waldo. My eyes grew tired, but it was completely worth it. We ended up seeing giraffes, zebras, buffalo, elephants, rhinos, warthogs, impalas, dung beetles, vultures, hippos, and a hyena with a suckling baby. We unfortunately did not see any ferocious felines- our biggest wish. Time went by quickly during the safari for every animal sighting would rejuvenate us. I, unfortunately, am the worst at spotting animals. Rocks transformed into animals to me….multiple times. Pretty much, I was banned from spotting “animals.” It was well deserved.
With a safari crossed off my Africa (and life) to do list, we headed back to the hostel to wake up early next morning to board the greyhound for Mozambique.
Mozambique
Crossing the border to Mozambique was an adventure within itself. We were under the impression that Mozambique’s visa process was similar to that of Zambia's-pay money. However, the woman behind the counter at greyhound informed us “if you do not have your visas and everyone else does, we will leave you.” Did I mention how terrible service in Africa is? Nonethelss, we boarded the buses crossing our fingers to have the process be a quick pay out. This was not the case. We waited for what seemed like forever for the ONE worker at the visa counter to take our money, new pictures, and process all of this. We expected to hear the engine of the bus to leave us as we were the only ones missing from the bus. Fortunately, the bus was awaiting us. However, we were not able to board it-no one was. There was a milk problem.
Now when I say “milk problem,” it is exactly what it sounds- problem with the milk on board. Greyhound (I am under the suspicion this company has nothing to do with the reliable greyhound we know and love back in the states, but merely took their name to fool us Americans into thinking it is) was using our bus to transport potatoes, milk, flour and other necessities to be sold in the city of Maputo. Therefore, we waited for what seemed like a lifetime in the sun while the issue of allowing the milk to cross the border was being disputed. You would have sworn it was drugs by the way they were defending the "powdered milk." The locals on the bus with us grew impatient and began fighting with the driver as he refused to open the doors to the air-conditioned bus. I will spare you the details and just say, we finally made it to Maputo.
It was here that the goodness of humanity came to light through a man named Velta.
He sat next to us on the bus and overheard my friends and I speak about how we have no idea where our hostel is, how to get there, what currency to use and how much everything would be. Pretty much, we were a mess. But Velta came to our rescue.
He offered to grab us a cab, ride with us to the bank, wait while we exchange money, and then drop us off at the hostel. This man is a saint. He just met us and barely even got our names yet took care of us and made sure no one took advantage of us. I blessed him with good luck for the entire week.
It was nighttime by the time we arrived at our next hostel, the Base, the site of our first taste into the frustration that is Meticas, Mozambiques currency. Put simply, Mozambique (yes, the entire country) does NOT like to give you change, YET the ATMS only like to hand you large bills. This translated into a multitude of frustrating conversations that went something like this:
Man: “Your total is 450.”
I hand them a 1000.
Man: “Uh…I do not have change for this.”
Me:”Well, I do not have any other bills.”
Man: Blank stare… “So what are you going to do about this?”
Me: “Nothing. What are YOU going to do about this?”
It sounds more comical than it was, especially after the 15th time.
My friends and I decided that we should try and pull an all nighter at the Base as we had to wake up at 3 am for a 7 hour mini bus ride to Tofo, where we would be spending the remainder of our trip. I hope you still remember what I said about not sleeping in the sitting position. Remember that, it will make this explanation much more visual (cruelly enjoyable) for you.
The mini bus is an adventure. It is a small bus that seats about 20 but somehow always contains about 30 people (if not more) crammed into it. Everyone knocks out within the first hour due to being incredibly uncomfortable, however, this could not be the case for me. Instead, I peered out the window and watched as we ventured on the one paved road of Mozambique to Tofo for seven hours. Periodically we would stop to pick up people and drop them off as well. This mini bus ride was a cakewalk in comparison to my returning one.
Tofo is the perfect beach. WARM water. Blue from far but clear while in it. God bless the Indian Ocean! Perfect waves for boogie boarding, surfing or just lying on the water. There are different pockets for whatever you were in the mood for. I did not think that I would be able to just lay out and play in the water for 6 days straight, but I was wrong. Time went by so quickly while in Tofo. We met up with a lot of people from our program as many came to Tofo as well. Aside from the water, my favorite part of Tofo was the stars. I have never seen the night sky so clear as to recognize the galaxy. The white in the sky overpowered the black. Amazing. Romantic.
The last night at Tofo was spent in a different hostel called Fatimas Nest. It provided a mini bus back to Maputo at 3 in the morning, yet again. This time we rode with the boys in our houses, so Roxy house was together again, along with 20 other anonymous passengers. That car ride was incredibly entertaining as I sat in the back and watched everyone trying to fall asleep. People would try and find a comfortable position while not bothering the person next to them. However after about 30 minutes of polite sleeping, people gave in and everyone was on top of each other. I myself had a “17” (he looked 12), year old boy collapse on me from sleepiness. Yet again I was up. But Africa is teaching me patience and the scenery outside of the car was beautiful. The flights back to Cape Town were long awaited and overdue. We waited 8 hours for a 30 minute plane ride. Delirium of Cat Pajamas part two. Overall it was a fantastic trip. It gave me a lot (and I mean a lot- 20 hours in a plane, 20 hours in a car) time to think. It is the best and worst part of traveling. The one thing that I kept overplaying in my head is how much the people in our lives influence who we are. A lot of this blog is about me discovering through the people I meet here or have known for a mere couple months. However, this trip was different in that I thought a lot about you guys at home and how those I choose to keep near to me have impacted my life. And to that I say thank you.
Surprisingly this is the bare bones synopsis of my trip. If you made it this far in reading, I commend you. Message me what souvenir you want!
Love you all and missing Starbucks (per usual).
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